By Mike Finney

DOVER — A limited supply of crabs this summer has led to higher prices at stores and restaurants and brought some crabby moods to seafood lovers throughout Delaware.

So far this summer, it has been slim — and expensive — pickings.

However, that isn’t unusual to the First State around the Fourth of July holiday, according to Isaac Burrows, who has owned and operated Sambo’s Tavern in Leipsic since the mid-1980s.

“Right now, the crabs are shedding, and you’re not able to catch many hard crabs or shedder crabs because the hard crabs are carrying the shedder crabs,” Mr. Burrows said. “We’re not catching many of each. It’s worse this year than it has been, but after about the 15th of July, it’ll get better. Right now, it’s just really, really tight.

“Some people can’t afford $75 for a dozen crabs. Some people can’t afford $50 a dozen, and so then, you get some that get a half-dozen. Everything’s crazy high … gasoline, electric, everything.”

Mr. Burrows asked crab connoisseurs to remain patient.

“This is when they’re the worst,” he said of the crab supply. “They’re shedding heavy, and nobody can get them, and then, in the weeks after, it picks up.”

Wholesale prices are translating to retail prices of around $400 for a bushel of No. 1-size crabs heading into the holiday weekend. That number can vary, as the definition of “No. 1” can differ greatly from outlet to outlet.

Elva Burrows, who owns Sambo’s with her husband, said a dozen No. 1s — the largest and heaviest of blue crabs — is currently going for $75 a dozen.

She said the limited supply has also affected the sales of crab cakes, not just at her restaurant, but throughout the state.

Mrs. Burrows said she used to pay $22 a pound for crab cake meat, but it has risen to $57 a pound. She now has to charge $25 for a crab cake and has been considering taking them off the menu.

With Independence Day looming and eager diners clawing their way back from the COVID-19 pandemic, she said it’s hard to know what to expect financially.

“If I had a lot of help, I’d like it,” said Mrs. Burrows of her limited staff. “We have some openings, but we’re handling it — these girls are good. Now, crab cakes is a whole other story right now. They’re expensive.”

Anthony Ross, owner of Ross Crabs in Milford, also admitted this hasn’t been a typical season when it comes to stocking and selling crabs.

Mr. Ross sells his shellfish at Fresh Connection off Del. 1, just south of Milford, as well as at the Milton Farmers’ Market on Friday evenings and at the Riverwalk Farmers Market in Milford on Saturdays.

“It’s been up-and-down,” he said. “We had a really slow spring. It was cold and wet. Now, with the heat, they’re starting to come on a little better, but it hasn’t been typical. It hasn’t been as flooded as it usually is, but we’re doing OK. We’re keeping up.”

He said there’s just something about having a gathering on the Fourth of July with family, friends and seafood.

“That’s just how we celebrate the Fourth of July, you know?” Mr. Ross said. “That’s how we did it growing up. We always had a big party with a couple of bushels of crabs.”

The story’s the same in Maryland.

In Salisbury, at well-known supplier 1 Fish 2 Fish Crabs & Seafood, crabs are fairly abundant in all sizes — but pricey.

A bushel of large crabs is $349 there, while a bushel of extra-large crabs is going for $429.

Russell Brown, a crabber out of Leipsic, is optimistic that things will turn around soon for members of his profession.

“We didn’t have a hard winter, so we should have crabs,” he said. “When you have a hard winter, you’ll have a die-off, but the winters have been pretty mild recently.

“I just don’t think that we’re seeing what’s actually down there right now. It’s hard to tell. Usually within a couple of weeks into July, once they get done shedding and mating and all that stuff, we start to see a little bit more. It’s give or take. I mean, some years, you get a little bit more, and some years are terrible.”

Mr. Brown continued, “This usually happens right around the Fourth of July because everybody wants them for the holidays, and then, after the Fourth of July, we usually start to see a little bit of a pickup.”

So for those looking to get a patriotic crab fest together this weekend, it will probably take a little more cash out of the wallet and a little more searching.

“You do what you can do,” said Mark Thompson of Greenwood. “If you like to eat crabs enough, then you’ll find a way to get them. … Maybe cut back to the smaller No. 2s or get a smaller amount of No. 1s.

“All I know is summertime is made for eating crabs and drinking beer, and I’ll find a way to get some crabs on my table.”

As for those skyrocketing crab cakes, higher prices are leading some business owners to make difficult decisions.

Woody’s Dewey Beach Bar & Grill recently announced on Facebook that it had to change its crab cake platter. Instead of two 6-ounce crab cakes, they now offer one, in an attempt to avoid selling out. The restaurant also stopped shipping crab cakes and crab soup.

“It breaks our heart to have to result to these measures but we’re not willing to change our product and risk the quality of our Crab Cake with inferior product just to sell crab cakes,” Woody’s owner Jimmy O’Conor wrote in a Facebook post. “Hopefully this will allow us not to run out of crab meat completely! Once again we appreciate your understanding and support.”

Cafe on the Circle, a restaurant on East Market Street in Georgetown, has also been battling the crabmeat shortage.

“Had to make the same call a few weeks ago after our supplier informed me of the new prices,” said a comment on Woody’s post from the owner of Cafe on the Circle. “Love your cakes. Hopefully, we see this turn around soon.”

In addition, Mrs. Robino’s Restaurant in Wilmington temporarily discontinued its Thursday Crab Nights due to the shortage of crabmeat.

Smyrna’s Todd Burrows — Isaac and Elva’s son, who is also a crabber — said crab lovers should keep their heads up, as things should be improving soon.

“Going into this weekend, it is very slim. They’re not catching many,” he said. “There’s a lot of shedding crabs. Once they let go, the mothers will regain themselves, but it’s really tight right now. They’re not catching many peelers, and they’re not catching many hard shells, but what they are catching is nice crab.

“It’s a population thing because you have uneven numbers, but this year, you have a lot of even numbers when it comes to males and females ratio. Right now, they’re just locked down, … and really, they’re making love, basically. What can you do?”